Hello: Total bicycle newbie here, not sure I'm in the right place

[happyslug]

13. I had to look up your bike, before I could comment

Last edited Sun Nov 2, 2014, 03:01 AM - Edit history (14)

http://www.electrabike.com/

Electra only sells one bike without fenders AND only coaster brakes. The bike comes in woman's and men's versions:

?itok=FeywnsZu

?itok=hjuRVIzT

They also have their own catalogs of accessories:

http://www.electrabike.com/sites/default/files/files/Electra-2014LifeCatalog.pdf

Electra appears to make cruiser type bicycles, but most have fenders and at least front hand brakes. Roughly 60% of any vehicle's stopping power is in their front brakes, thus your bike having only coaster brakes on his rear is an disadvantage. It does NOT make your bike bad, you just have to remember you do NOT have the stopping ability of a bike that does have front brakes.

You said you were six when your parents purchased a three speed for you. You said it was still to big for you in middle school. You wrote as if it maybe fit you in High School. If that was the case, then it was to much bike for a six year old. On the other hand, see my comments below about Three Speed bikes.

As to you and that bike is sounds like to much bike for a child of six. Some kids can handle it, but it was to much bike for someone of that age and lack of experience biking. A three speed (like a ten speed) is something you should have worked your self up to. A Cruiser type bike would have been a better option at that age. Once you become confident on the bike, then move on to a more advance bike.

I am of the same opinion as to your present cruiser, once you bike a good bit and see that you need a better bike, your better option is not to upgrade the Cruiser, but to opt for a more advance bike. That is clearly in the future, but keep it is mind when you look to upgrade the cruiser. Please that does not mean you should NOT buy the items you listed, but that when it comes time to upgrade the bike, you may be better off buying something else and upgrading the that bike then the Cruiser.

At present I am riding a 1972 Schwinn Sport Tourer, ten speed with a Chrome Moly Frame, and a 1991 Cannondale "Mountain" bike with an aluminium frame. I have also used a Cruiser, but my was from Phat cycle.

http://www.phatcycles.com/

The problems with Cruisers I saw with the Phat cycle is that they are NOT design for any hills, nor real long distances (i.e. 20 or more miles at a time, they can handle less then 20 miles on flat terrain with ease). They are a nice bike to start out with, but keep in mind their limitations. Their fat wheels produce more roll resistance then thinner tires, and they are not really design to be upgraded (Road and mountain bikes are designed to be upgraded, you can start with a good frame of either type with crap components for about $400-500 dollars and then replace the crap with good components over time, which is what I mean by upgrading).

As to this bike, you are only on it for 30 minutes at a time. That is well within the capacity of a Cruiser. I would opt for a light (which you have done) and most of the other items are things you should look into, but remember of and when you want to upgrade you would have to look at a different bike.

Lights After I wrote this piece and reviewed it recently, I made some changes to other parts of this paper and decided I better mention lights also, so this is a whole new section not an update as of 11/1/1014.

Since at least the 1990s (and maybe earlier) LEDs have been the light at the rear of all bicycles. I remember older incandescent tail lights and I hate to say it, they are better off forgotten.

In Germany it is illegal to have flashing lights, the reason for this is simple, it tends to draw people's attention to the flashing and when driving a car they tend to go in the direction of the flashing light UNLESS trained not to do so (as is the case with Police, fire and other emergency vehicles). In the 1980s when police adopted new flashers, this tendency was seen to increase even in the US (The police since the 1980s have opted for new lights that do NOT draw people to the light as much). I remember those flashers, they were bad but took several years to get them out of service.

Anyway, Germany notice this is true of all flashers (the Police lights of the 1980s were just the worse in that regard). Thus Germany bans all flashing lights on cars and bicycles. For this reason Lights from Germany do NOT have a flashing option, unlike lights made elsewhere (i,e, Japan, Taiwan and China).

In my experience, flashing lights should be avoided, stay with the constant light, The main reason for this is that when people are out at night they see cars and trucks with constant lights and are thus trained to avoid them. Flashing lights are much rarer and people tend to go to them to see what they are. Given this "Training" i.e. experience of seeing cars and trucks go by this constant lights, constant lights are presumed to be vehicles by most people at night, and that includes constant lights on Bicycles.

Thus m first point is avoid the use of flashing lights, stay with a constant light.

As to head lights, do to the greater power requirements of headlights, LED headlights, even for bicycles were unheard of prior to 2000. LED Taillights were the norm for bicycles by 1990 and I saw increase use by Tractor Trailers (Large Trucks) by 1995, but automobiles did not start to use LEDs till 2000. Yes, Bicycle were the first to adopt LEDs, followed by Tractor Trailers, then cars, then mid size trucks (Many trailers retained incandescent lights to this day, but the tractor hauling them tend to be all LED except for headlights).

Like Taillights, Bicycles were the first to adopt LED lights. I saw this after 2000. Now prior to about 2000, if I was to be asked what was the best lighting system, I would have said a high end generator. The reason for that was in the 1990s I did a lot of night time riding my bicycle and discovered the only way I could have more then 2 hours of lighting was to have such a generator. With traditional incandescent lights, the batteries use by those lights tended to run out of power after about an hour and a half of usage. With a Generator powered light, I could have lights for 8-10 hours.

Now, I had used some cheap generator lights in the 1970s, the main effect of them was to tire up the tires of my bike. In the 1990s I broke down and purchased a Schmidt SON hub generator and I have used one ever since. It is an excellent source of power. The incandescent lights that I purchased with it, worked very well and provided a lot of power. I had been using a Nite Rider incandescent light but with the adoption of the SON the Nite Rider was restricted to when I wanted a high beam (I had purchased top end Nite Rider during the 1990s).

When LED headlights came out for the SON I purchased them. They were NOT Cheap, but provided even more light then the conventional incandescent lights that I had been using with the SON. I was happy with them. I checked out the then new LED battery headlights and found them inferior to the lights SON was offering for use with its Generator. This remained true till recently, which would be about 2010.

In 2010 I started to notice an increase in high quality LED headlights for Bicycles. Niterider had offered high end (and high price) such lights earlier but those lights were NOT quite the equal as the LED lights that I could get for the SON generator. By 2010 that was No LONGER THE CASE, i.e. the high end battery operated lights were up to the level of the high end LED lights for the SON.

Thus If someone was to ask me 20 years ago, what light to get, I would have told them the Schmidt SON out of Germany (or one of its competitors out of Europe, the ones out of Japan were a lot cheaper but also NOT as good). At that time period, the high end internal hub generator from Schmidt (i.e. the SON) was heads and shoulders above anything else. Yes, for short, less then 90 minutes period,s Niterider was just as bright but if you were out longer then that it was the Schmidt.

Now, that started to change with the adoption of LED Lighting. From 2000 on, the LED came into there own as the headlight of choice. The problem was the better LEDs producer saw the users of the Schmidt willing to pay top dollar for good lights and thus catered to that group. Thus in the early years of LED bicycle headlights usage, the Generator lights were still superior. It was such lights that had the latest technology NOT the battery operated LED lights.

That has recently changed (since about 2008-2010 period). Today battery powered bicycle lights are as good as the LED lights that are powered by Generators. Today's LED headlights can provide all the power one needs for 6-8 hours (and often longer). Thus the advantages of Generator Lights have finally disappeared.

Now Generators still have advantages over batteries, for example, generators can provide powers for years without the need to plug it in to be recharged OR to replace the battery, but in the days before LED that was viewed as a minor advantage, the big advantage for generators NEVER ran out of power and thus could provide lights all through the night.

Thus today, you have three choices when it comes to headlights for Bicycles. High end and high price generators, much cheaper rechargeable headlights and even cheaper headlights that use replaceable batteries

I mention the advantage of the Generator Headlight above. The advantage of the rechargable LED light is it can provide lighting for hours and can be recharged and do it all over again the next night. If you are commuting this may be the best choice (Through if you forget to charge the battery, you have no lights, unlike the case with a Generator or a replaceable battery light).

Replaceable battery LED lights are the cheapest LED one can get. If you use rechargeable batteries with it, you can charge the battery just like if it was a rechargeable LED light, but if you forget to charge them, all you have to do is buy new batteries. If you use rechargeable batteries, the cost to operate (and total cost to buy) tends to be about the same as a Rechargable LED Light (and more expensive if you have to buy a charger). On the other hand, if you go on a long trip without access to power, you just buy new batteries. More expensive in the long run, but it is a viable option (and the most cost effective if you generally do NOT ride your bike at night).

I do not see Generators dieing out, they still have some advantages over Battery lights, the biggest one is no need to be recharged OR buy batteries (Through as the cost of a much more costly system). Rechargeable are probably the best choice for someone who is commuting OR riding the bike daily, but is returning home each night or day so the battery can be recharged. The down side is if the cyclist goes on a long trip without access to electrical power, the rechargable LED light will shortly run out of power and can NOT be replaced by buying batteries.

LED lights with replaceable batteries have the advantage of costing about what a rechargable LED Light would cost but retaining the option of using non rechargeable batteries (and such batteries are available almost world wide if you stay with AA or AAA batteries. Ds and Cs are now getting harder to find for they were intended for use in old incandescent flashlights that are now almost disappeared do to how much the newer LED Flashlights work). The disadvantage is the additional cost of the rechargeable batteries AND the recharger.

LED Lights without a rechargeable battery but using conventional batteries, are the cheapest option when you look at up front costs, but the most costly once you add up the costs of all the batteries one would need. Do remember, such a light can be used on long multi-day trip by buying new batteries each day.

As to the level of lighting, I have always opt for the brightest light I could. When I was using my Niterider light in the 1990s, it was so bright that I had to avoid shining into the face of any auto drivers I ran across. The reason was simple it was almost up to high beam level of brightness. I have NOT run across a light as bright (But I have also NOT purchased any of the newer LED lights from Nite Rider). Most bike stores sell more then adequate lights and I would opt for the brightest one they had, even for use on roads and bike trails.

Remember a low beam has about 1100 lumens, 1600 on high beam. Niterider is the only maker of lights that I know of that exceed these numbers and then only on they pro level lights. I always like the time I used the Schmidt as my main light and the niterider as a high beam. I kept the light on my head, and given the time period the battery was heavy and it went on my helmet with some work. Today, with LED lighting and Lithium Ion batteries all of that is gone, but the lights are even brighter and the batteries carry more power at lighter weight.

http://www.niterider.com/

I obtain my Schmidt SON (and the wheel it was installed on) from Peter White Wheels:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wheels.asp

Schmidt's SON website:
http://www.nabendynamo.de/english/

Schmidt's measures their light in Lux not Lumens. WIth its light the SON can produce 50 lux at 20 meter for an area of 4 meters. The Typical Office lighting is 500 lux, in most living rooms 50 lux. DARK Overcast day 100 lux, Overcast day 100 lux, bright Sunny day 100,000 lux.

This seems to be do to German Regulations, Under German Bicycle lighting Regulations, Lux is measured 10 meters away as oppose to how much light is being actually produced (Lumens). i.e Lux measures what is being lighted, lumens is the measure of how much light is being produced.

It seems even the US viewed Lux as the better measurement:
http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/roadway_dept/night_visib/lighting_handbook/
file:///C:/Users/liar/Downloads/TP-404-00.pdf
http://xrayvision.net/lighting-facts/perception-and-response/

Lux is defined as one Lumen per square meter

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux

To do an accurate conversion between Lux and Lumens you need to know the Lux or Lumen, the distance in question (For the above lights it is 10 meters) AND the actual angle of the light beam (which I do NOT know) OR the distance be illuminated by the light (again something I do not know, but if I had the light I could determine):

http://ledstuff.co.nz/data_calculators.php

Just another example of German Generator Engineering willing to push the envelope of development for it knows its users will pay a premium for the better light.

7. Tool Kit. Are you going to be so far from home that you can not walk the bike home? Remember that is an option if something goes wrong. Yes walking will take more time, but so will doing any major repairs and that includes changing inner tubes if and when the tires do flat. On longer trips, 10 or more miles, a tool kit would be handy. I take with me the following on such long trips:

a. Pliers A pair of pliers, a cheap pair, so if you lose it you will not miss it. You can get a workable pair of pliers for under $10. Make sure the pliers work i.e. can grab and hold a wire.

b. Hex Tool A Park hex tool, it contains almost all the Hex tools you need to tighten any hex nuts you may have on your bike. Cost about $10. Now Park sells multi-tools, but I believe they have to many items on them that are NOT worth carrying (and that includes Chain tools, something you may need on a more advance bike but NOT on a cruiser).

I carry TWO sets of Park hex tools, the AWS-9 and the AWS-10. The difference is the AWS-9 has a conventional flat screwdriver and a Phillips head Screwdriver with a 4, 5 and 6mm Hex drivers. The AWS-10 has only Hex Drives, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, and 5 MM. On some of the accesories I have installed on my bike the smaller hex drives come into play:



Park Tools Hex Drives sets:

http://www.parktool.com/category/hex-wrenches

If you need a larger hex drive, get a proper racket to put the correct torque on the nut. Thus I do NOT carry the AWS-11, through the AWS-12 is interesting for it contains 3/16. 7/32 and 1/4 hex drives. I have an American Made Bicycle Trailer, a Cycletote, that uses English hexes instead of Metric Hexes. Some other accessories also are English not Metric. With these small sizes the differences can be critical.

Park also has one for TORX nuts. TORX is popular in automobiles for they speed up assembly in an assembly line. Rare to find on a bicycle thus NOT worth buying, but if you have a TORX head on your bicycle you may need it. Please note some of the hydraulic brakes use TORX nuts, so people with such brakes may want to opt for something with a TORX head. Cruisers do NOT have such hydraulic brakes.

An alternative would be a three way hex set. I have one on me for my trailer. These are a little bit easier to use for they are FIXED i.e. do not fold, thus more pressure can be applied without then bending. Park has a 2, 2.5, and 3 mm version. A and a 4, 5 and 6 mm version. A 4, 5 and 6 mm "Ball Drive" version. Other tool company make such three way hex set and I have yet to find one that is "Bad" unlike some multi-head hex tools which have been known to become rusty and fall apart (which is one of the reason I do recommend Park when it comes to such hex drives).

A "ball driven" hex tool is for use when a conventional hex tool can not be applied The "Ball Drive" permits a off centered use of the hex driver. Use of such ball driven hex tools should be avoided for they are all weaker then conventional hex tools. I have a Thule front wheel rack that requires the use of such a ball driven hex tool. I like the rack except for that feature. Please note I am talking of a rack ON a bicycle NOT a rack to carry a bicycle, Thule is know for its bike rack to carry bicycles, The bicycle Rack I am talking about is new and to be installed on a bike not a car.

One Tool I have always liked, but keep forgetting about is Park's Multi-Tool. It is a one piece tool that has one it 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 mm Hex wenches, 8, 9, and 10 MM Sockets, a straight screwdriver. It is NOT the best tool, the tools above are better, but it is one tool as opposed to 2 or 3 of the above tools and as such is the tool one should have if you only have one tool.

Please note the above tools are all made in the USA. Park's other multi-tools are made overseas and are NOT as good as the above tools.

c. Tire Repair kit, Spare Inner tube and a pump Any Tire repair kits with plastic tire "irons". I use Park tool as an example, but in this regard only as an example. On most bikes I end up using three tire "irons" when I change tires, most kits come with only two, so you may want to pick up a second set of plastic tire irons, they come in handy if you get a flat and need to change an inner tube.

http://www.parktool.com/product/tire-and-tube-repair-kit-tr-1

Side note: The term "Tire Irons" come from the days before Automatic Auto Tire Change machines. In those days of olde, you had to use heavy large flat bars to separate the tire from the wheel. These flat bars were known as "Tire Irons" even through most were made of Steel. There had a reputation as teeth breakers even when used properly, thus the the automatic tire changers were a huge improvement.

As to bicycles the pressure needed to get the tire off the wheel is NOT as great, most men can do so with the bare hands IF the tire and wheel are within the specs mentioned below. Please note MOST bike tires and wheels are NOT within those specs AND I have had to use Plastic Tire Irons on tires and wheels within those specs (and I am a 6 foot 2 inch MALE). Thus my comment uses the term "Most Males" for even males with the strongest fingers and a tire within those specs have had to use plastic "Tire Irons".

d. Adjustable Wrench Some sort of adjustable wrench, again go cheap, thus if you lose it you did not lose much. Now, adjustable wrenches were much more needed 40 years ago, before everyone switched to hex nuts. If you have no bolts or nuts, you may want to skip the adjustable wrench. Makes sure the wrench WORKS before you buy it, i.e. the adjustment mechanism actually works. I have had some cheap adjustable wrenches where the mechanism would NOT work, i.e. would NOT adjust the opening and I had to throw them away as useless.

Please note I have seen some bikes that only have a bolt holding the tire on the bike. If that is the situation with your bike, skip the adjustable wrench and just carry a wrench for that size bolt. Most bikes have gone to quick release mechanism and thus do NOT have any bolts, thus even this option may be skipped.

e. Screwdriver. Again, check if you have any bolts or nuts that uses a flat or Philips head screwdriver on your bike, if your bike has no flat or Phillips head screw heads, skip it (and a lot of bikes today use nothing but hex heads). Please note the PARK Hex Tool the AWS-9 has a phillips and Flat screwdriver among its hex drivers. On the other hand, I have been known to carry one of each for as a fix tools they do come in handy.

f. A good tire repair kit is good. I always have one with me, along with a spare inner tube (and a pump to pump up the tire with). Yes, I carry a spare inner tube AND a patch kit. The Patch kit works and is light. The Spare inner tube is better, but I have been in situation where I needed both, so I carry both.

Side Note: The tires on your Electra is listed as 2.125 x 26 inch tires. Spare tires are rarely needed (tire do wear out, but over years not during one ride). One of the problems with a lot of bicycles is the maker of the bike put to wide a tire on to narrow a wheel.

A good article on tire sizes, it includes a chart on what size tires so go on what size wheel rims.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

One of the problems with many bikes is that the tires used on the wheels are to large for the wheel width. You can force them on (and I have done it) but a closer match between the two sizes makes doing so a lot easier.

The Article also points out the ISO "name" for what we Americans call 26 inch wheels, which is 559 (26 inch wheels are used on most mountain and cruisers). In many ways the ISO size in not only more accurate but more useful. For 700 wheel bikes (most road and racing bikes today) the ISO is 622. The reason for this is when bicycle wheels were first standardized, what people used was the size of the wheel with the tire on the wheel. Thus what we call a 26 inch wheel, was introduced by Schwinn in the 1930s as a wheel for bikes used on dirt roads by farmers heading to town. The Tire and wheel were 26 inch in diameter if using what we call a 26 x 2.125 inch tire.

The French 700 (used on most road, touring and racing bikes) is based the size of a tire on a wheel .

The problem with the system used to come up with the names 26 inch and 700 wheels, is if you moved away from the standard tires on these wheels the size actually changes. ISO solved this problem by using only the diameter of the wheel itself NOT the tire on that wheel. Thus a 26 inch wheel is 559 mm in diameter, no matter what size tire is on that wheel. A 700 wheel is 622 is diameter no matter what size tire is on that wheel.

For some more information on Park Tools and a decent book on bicycle repair:
http://www.parktool.com/

6. Water bottle holder. I believe this is a must. On a hot day, two would be better. Now remember I am talking about long trips, but a Cruiser can go on long trips, just not as good as a Road or Mountain bike can. On hot days. You will need water, so take a water bottle with you. My practice on hot days is to first freeze one bottle with water in it the night before. I always leave it a little bit empty, both to allow for expansion when the water turns to ice, AND to permit adding water to the ice, to cool down the water when I am on the bike trip. When I first start the bike trip, I would drink out of another bottle till it was gone, and then switched to the frozen water bottle (I have also empty the water from a warm bottle of water into the frozen bottle, it cools down the warm water and cold water is something to look forward to in hot weather). Thus in hot weather, you may want to opt for two bottles and two bottle holders.

5. Rear view mirror. I have been using the Mirrcycle mirror on my Cannondale, but it requires the ability to plug the tail of the mirror into the end of the handlebar. It is, in my opinion, the best mirror on the market for bicycles. I suspect you can install this mirror on your bike, and if that is the case it is the mirror I would opt for.



http://www.mirrycle.com/mirrycle_mirrors.php

Now, on my Schwinn, I can not put a Mirrcycle on it (The handlebar does not permit the mirror to be in a position ffor me to see the mirror, the Schwinn had drop down handlebars), thus I have installed a Orlieb Ultra Light Mirror on the Schwinn:



http://www.performancebike.com/reviews/performance/power/pwr/product-reviews/Accessories/Bike-Locks-Bike-Mirrors-Bike-Fenders/Locks-Mirrors-And-Fenders/ULTRA-LIGHT/p/40__1315-Ultra-Light-Bike-Mirror.html

The Ultra light Mirror was fairly inexpensive and did a better job on my Schwinn then I though it would. I do not think it is as good as the Mirrcycle, but on drop down handlebars it exceeded my expectations.

More recently I have installed a much larger mirror on my Schwinn, for I like a large mirror on my bicycle. I could do so for it uses 1970 era brakes not post 1980 brakes on its downturn handlebars. You can NOT install such a mirror on a modern downturn handlebar for where I installed it would bloke the use the that brake. Do to the design of the brakes I have on my Schwinn I could use such a mirror.

Now my Schwinn does NOT have modern (Post 1980) brakes. From the late 1970s onward, hand brakes on bikes with turn down handlebars started to be designed so one could ride with one' hand over the hand brake and operate it from the top of the brake. My Schwinn does NOT have this feature, it uses the older and the less reliable dual "Extension levers" (often called "Suicide Levers&quot to provide access to the brakes if you are riding with your hands on top of the turn down Handlebars instead of directly behind the hand brake. Such Extension levels permitted use of the brakes when your hands were on the top of the handlebar as opposed to only from behind the brake. The down side of such extension is they do NOT work that well (and thus called "Suicide Levels" for to rely on such extension levels was the same as committing suicide). Such Extension level disappeared after 1980 when the current hand brakes became the norm on bikes with turn down handlebars. When using such Extension Levers ("Suicide Levels) it was recommended that you switch to the lower position for any serious braking. Do to people NOT doing that and ending up injured when the brakes did not work the modern system of front brakes were invented and quickly replaced the older Extension Levers.

More on Extension (Suicide) Levers:
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#extension

Please note post 2000 Interrupter Brake Levers are a completely different design then the older Extension Levers. Extension levers worked by being physically attached to the main brake Level and pushed down on that lever to work the brakes. The Extension had no direct connection with the brake Cables. i./e the Extension level pushed down on the main brake lever that the brake Cable was connected to. In the Interrupter system the brake Cable is directly connected to the Extension in addition to the main brake and thus none of the problems of loss of brake when using one or the other.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#interrupter

I could have installed in BELOW my main brake, but I opt to install the mirror above my main brake. If you have post 1980 brakes on your turn down handlebars (Cruisers do NOT have such handlebars), it would be difficult to find a place to install the larger mirror and thus the Orlieb mirror is probably the better choice. I am just mentioning the larger and cheaper mirror for it is an option but you have to be careful where you install in on your bike, i.e. make sure it does NOT interfere with your brakes.

4. Rear Racks. If you opt for a rack, go with a Silver rack as opposed to a black rack. I do not know what color your bike is, but on most cruisers a "Silver" Rack looks a lot better then a black rack (And that is from someone who has black racks on both his front and rear on his Cannondale). On a Cruiser, looks are important, and most racks are designed for road or mountain bikes. If you opt for a rear rack color is important.

One note on racks, Hollow tube racks are stronger then solid tube racks. That does not sound right, you would think solid would be stronger, but when it comes to metal construction hollow is stronger, Thus spend the extra money and get a rack with hollow tubes. The Arkel cite has references to some of the better made racks.

As to what goes on a rack, I go with Arkel bicycle panniers at the present time. They are sewed and made in Quebec, but made of US made material:

http://www.arkel-od.com/

Now, I also use a Carrdice seat bag. These are the biggest bags you can get that attaches to a seat. You can attach them, to other saddles, but they were designed for use on Brook saddles (Rivit Saddles is a made in USA company for similar saddles and have attachments points for Carrdice seat saddles):



https://carradice.co.uk/

Brooks Saddles:

http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/

Rivit Saddles:

https://carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=category&category_id=52

Leather saddles are considered the most comfortable long time on the bike saddles. They are NOT cheap, but the old joke is once you use one and break it in, you just do not use any other saddle. Brooks is considered the best, but Terri also sells leather saddles (please look below for more on Terri Bikes and accessories).

3. Front Basket. A basket looks cool on a Cruiser. Just remember a basket is a basket, things will bounce around and some times out of the basket. Now, I have used two types of basket on my bike. One just hooked up to the handlebars. I hate to say this, yes it quickly hooks on, and as quickly bounces off. Look for a basket with a some sort of attachment mechanism. Either a quick release or just leather straps. Both would hold the basket onto the handlebars. This is what I was using before I decided to destroy it (another story, bike baskets can NOT handle being slammed down from six feet about the ground onto pavement at 55 mph). A good thing about such baskets you can still use it when and if you upgrade to a more advance bicycle:



http://www.rei.com/product/776978/electra-quick-release-wire-bike-basket

I also any basket that straps to the handlebar as oppose to just hooking on them.

http://www.rei.com/zoom/792807/230

Just remember things can bounce in or out of a basket, but if you opt for a basket make sure it is secured to the handlebars not just hooked on.

2. Fenders Fenders can be had for under $50. I am using SKS Longboards. They give the most cover. Please remember make sure the fender is at least a 1/2 inch wider then the tire (that gives a 1/4 inch on each side of the tire).



Now, the Electra Cruiser has 2.125 inch tires. Remember that there are 25.4 mm to an inch, thus you have to look for a 65mm wide fender on your cruiser. SKS makes several sizes of fender (and different types of fenders), The Long Board comes in 35, 45, 50, 55 and 65mm widths. 1/4 inch is about 6mm, a 1/2 inch is about 12mm. A 2.125 inch wide tire is about 2 1/8 inches wide or roughly 54mm. Thus the 55 mm is to narrow to provide you coverage from water from the tire, you have to opt for the wider 65mm.

One comment on the SKS Longboards. For the 700 cc wheels, the long board goes almost to the ground. I have NOT found this to be a problem EXCEPT going up and down stairs. On stairs the long board tends to get caught on each step and being plastic that can lead to them breaking.

On the long boards for 26 inch wheels, the front fenders are NOT as long as the front fenders for the 700 cc wheels. I have NEVER had one hit the steps as I move it in and out of my basement (unlike the Schwinn and its 700 cc Long Boards which gets caught by almost every step as I move the Schwinn from the same basement.

1. Bells and Horns. Most states require you to have a bell. I also recommend a horn. A bell is something nice to ring when you come up to some pedestrians and you want to tell them you are passing. A horn is nice to use on cars that buzz you. I have a tendency to have both, but only a bell is requires and if you stay on bike paths a bell is all you should need.

I recently found on Amazon a 140 decibel horn. This is to be reserved for a Car that buzzes you (or beeps at you for it is saying "Same you you fellas&quot .

http://www.amazon.com/Hornit-dB140-Cycle-Remote-Trigger/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414904320&sr=8-3&keywords=air+horn+for+bike

As one commenter said "it wakes up the dead" (Which is one of the reason to get a Horn, but its use tends to be on busy city streets, NOT on bike trails or even country lanes.

http://www.amazon.com/Hornit-dB140-Cycle-Remote-Trigger/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414904320&sr=8-3&keywords=air+horn+for+bike#customerReviews

Another horn that uses air only is also available. I have used these in the past, my problem is I tend to break them before I can use them for they are made of plastic:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414904320&sr=8-1&keywords=air+horn+for+bike

As to bells most bike stores sell them and a cheap $10 one is as goods as you need to tell a pedestrian that you are coming up behind them on a bike trail. Please remember you will be using the bell 10 to 100 times more then the horn, so if you have to choice between the two opt for the bell.

http://www.amazon.com/Mirrycle-Incredibell-Bicycle-Bell-Brass/dp/B001CJVGRY

Your old Three Speed:

Now, you still have your three speed, my question is does it still fit you? You said it was to big when you were six, but then you rode it in high school. It may be a better bike then the Cruiser if it still fits you, but only after you have confidence in your ability to ride it. Three speeds were designed to take a lot of abuse, any many are running today without any problems, even after 50 or more years of use.

I had an old English Three Speed in the early 1970s. It was clearly a 1950s model bicycle, my father picked it up, I suspect on his old Post Office Route (He was a letter carrier). It was a Raleigh from England. Very good bike, better then the single speed I had been riding. In my opinion it was a better bike then the ten speed I ended up replacing it with in the early 1980s. I stop riding it when I was in High School, for the City of Pittsburgh gave me a bus pass to go to school, and I then proceeded to abuse public transportation from 1974 through 1977, then when I had to buy my own bus passes when I went to Collage between 1977 and 1981 (My parents also moved to a part of town where biking was not popular, do to the hillsides on all sides, the closest thing to a flat street was the street the Street car ran on, and it ended on exclusive right of ways for the streetcar on both the start and end of that street).

My three speed was a good solid bike, it was stolen and I miss it. My older brother had been in the service and when he was discharged he bought the 1971 Schwinn Le Tour I mentioned above. On my three speed I could stay close to him on the flats, but on hills he would leave me in the dust. My younger brother tag behind on a single speed.

I suspected he tagged behind for his bike was a High Tension steel frame bike, while my three speed and the Schwinn were Chrome Moly. Chrome Moly is a much stiffer material then high tension steel, and that permitted more peddling power to apply to the rear wheel. High Tension steel was the wonder material of 1900s (had the Titanic been built of it, it would have survived, the Titanic was built of crap steel).

The problem with high tension steel, is while it was cheap, it was also "flexible" i.e. absorb up to 70% of the effort to peddle the bike. Thus Chrome Moly bikes tend to be much easier to peddle (The big difference in stiffness is between High Tension steel and Chrome moly, while Aluminum, Titanium and now Carbon Fiber all even more stiff then Chrome Moly, these are all just marginally more stiff then Chrome Moly, compared to the difference between stiffness between High Tension Steel and Chrome Moly Steel). Thus Chrome Moly, is still a competitive material for high end bicycles today. It is competitive with Aluminum, Titanium and Carbon Fiber, something High Tension steel is NOT. I suspect your Electra is Chrome Moly, it is mostly department store bikes that are high tension steel (and over the last 30 years, even the Department Store bikes have turn to Chrome Moly).

Chrome Moly bikes were always marked Chrome Moly or had Lugged frames with just a few exceptions prior to the 1980s (The Schwinn Le Tour was one of the exceptions to having lugged Frames). Since 1980 many of not most Chrome Moly frames have dropped lugs, but many still retain them, I bring this up to see if your three speed has a lug frame or not. Just curious given it was a three speed. It thus may be better quality then you may think. I bring this up, for, when it comes time for you to upgrade, you may want to look at the three speed. It may be a Chrome Moly Frame and as such worth upgrading. i.e. Better to upgrade the Three speed then to buy another bike or upgrade the Cruiser.

Examples of what a lug frame looks like:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lugged_steel_frame_construction

More different material used to make bicycle frames:

http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-frame-materials.html

More on "English Three Speed" bicycles:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opafiets#The_Opafiets

Electra Baskets and Accessories

After I wrote the above, I looked up the accessories of Electra and found that the basket I have been using on my Cannondale had been a Electra.

Now, the basket is in good shape. It was in the trunk of my car when the Bike hit the pavement at 55 mpg. The bike had been on the top of my car on a bike rack that had come lose. The bike rack, with the bikes, ended up on the pavement as I rode over a paved one lane in each direction highway. I recovered the rack (some plastic parts needed replaced, as while as the bases otherwise still usable). The bikes (no damage on them, through the plastic SKS fenders on the Schwinn had to be replaced, replacement costs $50). The racks on the bikes survived with only scratches (as did the car). On the other hand the quick attachment mechanism for the basket was damages enough to become unusable (replacement costs $20).

Till I looked up your bike, I had forgotten who even made the basket (I picked it up at my local bike shop last summer). I have to thank you for your post, it forced me to look up your bike and I found the basket I had used and replacement parts.

Side note: Woman's and Men's bikes.

Woman's bodies are different then men's. The problem is most bicycle are built for men and then "modified" for women. The classic example it the moving of the middle tube from its high spot on a men's bike, to a much lower position on a woman's bike. This was done to permit women in skirts to not have to lift their leg over the rear of the bike to get on the bike when they were in a skirt. The side affect of the moving of the tube was to weaken the frame. Triangles are the strongest structure in any type of construction, and you have that in a man's bike frame, and destroy it with a woman's frame. Thus a woman's frame has to be made with stronger material (and better welding) the a man's bike.

The main problem with bikes and women is women's center of gravity. With a man, men having much more muscle then woman, and muscle weighing four times the same volume as fat, a man's center of gravity is in the middle of his chest. Thus when a man leans over a bike frame, his center of gravity in between the seat and the handlebar and can become one with the bike.

Woman have the single most powerful muscle in the human body, the muscle to give birth. Women's breasts are mostly light weight fat. Thus a woman's center of gravity is about four inches BELOW her belly button (I am trying NOT to offend anyone). When it comes to holding something of great weight, women and men tend to hold them differently. Woman tend to hold heavy items closer to their body then men, so both their upper body and whatever they are holding is centered over their center of gravity. Men tend to hold heavy items away from their chest, so that whatever they are holding and their center of gravity balance out over their legs. Women can stay on their feet better then a man when knock backward on or above the chest. Women just Stagger backwards for women's center of gravity is while below the point of impact, while men will end up on their ass as their center of gravity goes from being over their legs to while behind those legs.

Here a site on the famous use the difference between men and women's center of gravity:

http://www.csr.utexas.edu/grace/education/activities/pdf/Fun_Gravity.pdf

Thus on a bike designed for a man, a woman rear is in the air to her rear, as is her center of gravity. Thus she feels awkward, for all of her weight is in the wrong place to act as one with the bike. Thus woman prefer to sit more upright then a man, This has the effect of woman wanted her handlebars closer to the seat then a man wants the handlebars.

Terri and Waterford Bicycles

The traditional "Woman's bike" do not address the above issues. Terri, a female engineer who decided to make bicycles make what is considered the best bike to address these issues. Terri first claim it was because woman's arms and legs were shorter then a man (Typical engineer looking for direct link) but when that was shown NOT to be the case, ended up embracing the concept of center of gravity. Terri also designed the first saddle designed for woman. It is NOT a Brooks, but it is a very good saddle. Her bikes are made by Waterford Bicycle Company, but designed for women, some have different sizes front and rear wheels so that the bike can be made shorter and a female rider could then sit more upright.

The Waterford Bicycle plant was first built by Schwinn before it went bankrupt in the early 1990s. The plant was to make Schwinn high end bicycles, the Paramount series of bicycles. One descendant of the Schwinn family is still involved with Waterford. When Schwinn went into Bankruptcy in 1992, Waterford purchased the plant to continue to make the Paramount branch of Schwinn bikes. Subsequent to the bankruptcy of Schwinn, Waterford had to stop using the name Schwinn for someone else purchased the name. Thus it is the continuance of real Schwinn high end bike maker, but it can NOT use the name Schwinn, but it makes the best Chrome Moly frame bikes in the country. These are high end bikes, people spend a couple of thousand on one, but if you ever get to the level of biking that you need a high end, it is the one to get (and that includes Terri's which are made in the same plant).

Terri Site:
http://www.terrybicycles.com/?gclid=CODWoYem470CFYc7OgodwQEA4A

If you want to skip the clothing section, here is the direct link to the bikes:
'http://www.terrybicycles.com/Bikes_2

Waterford site:
http://waterfordbikes.com/w/

I bring up Terri, for she started out making the first woman's saddle designed for woman. She did copy the old McClellan horse Saddle concept a split saddle (McClellan in turn stole the concept from the Russian Cossacks, when McClellan was in the Crimea during the Crimea war of the early 1850s). It was the first true saddle designed for women. Prior to Terri, woman had to put up with saddles designed for men (or opt for a Brooks leather saddle, if they could find one).

Terri Saddles, and Terri herself has embraced the concept of Leather being the best material for Saddles:

http://www.terrybicycles.com/Saddles

Leather is considered the best material for saddle for it will conform to your body better then any other material. This is why Brooks, Rivit and Terri all make Saddles with Leather.

I like the Terri Commuter bike, it is something you should look into, ONCE YOU ARE COMFORTABLE with your present bike, cost is $749, and you only have the 8 gears in the rear, but an overall good second bike. Comes with a rear rack and Actual metal Fenders:



http://www.terrybicycles.com/Bicycles/Ready-To-Ride-Commuter/Burlington