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elleng

(136,365 posts)
Tue Dec 2, 2014, 02:09 PM Dec 2014

The Cinque Terre on a Budget

The stunning profile stretched into the distance before me: miles of craggy coastline punctuated by five pastel villages, each nestled amid cliffs and sparkling sea. But on a pleasant afternoon in mid-October, only one other person was admiring this spectacular view of Cinque Terre, on the northwestern coast of Italy.

“It’s lonely on the trail today,” said Kerstin Bahrfeck-Wichitill, a speech pathologist from Dortmund, Germany, voicing a sentiment you’ll never hear on the Cinque Terre’s more famous hiking path, the Sentiero Azzurro.

On paper, the five villages that constitute the Cinque Terre seemingly have it all: Mediterranean beaches, beautiful hiking trails, fantastic fresh seafood and picturesque cobblestone lanes.

“Cinque Terre is very popular with the Americans because of Rick Steves — his book is their bible,” Grazia Lizza told me in Italian earlier that day as she escorted me to her rustic agriturismo, L’Erba Persa, in the nearby town of Levanto. But where there is a holy book, there are flocks of followers. And therein lies the most common complaint about the Cinque Terre: crowds.

As is often the case, crowds mean higher prices. But, as I found on a recent trip, the Cinque Terre can still be explored on a frugal budget. I set out from my home, about 40 minutes away, to see what I could do with the equivalent of $100 in euros in my pocket. The only expense excluded from that weekend budget was lodging (though that, too, would be modestly priced, at least compared with what’s typical).

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/11/30/travel/the-cinque-terre-on-a-budget.html?hpw&rref=travel&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&module=well-region&region=bottom-well&WT.nav=bottom-well&_r=0

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The Cinque Terre on a Budget (Original Post) elleng Dec 2014 OP
What a fun article. I love these kinds of adventures that include a pretty strict budget. cbayer Dec 2014 #1
You'd LOVE it, cbayer! elleng Dec 2014 #2
It sounds like heaven. cbayer Dec 2014 #3
Glad she did too. EDITED, elleng Dec 2014 #4

cbayer

(146,218 posts)
1. What a fun article. I love these kinds of adventures that include a pretty strict budget.
Tue Dec 2, 2014, 05:12 PM
Dec 2014

I don't know this area at all, but I would sure like to!

elleng

(136,365 posts)
2. You'd LOVE it, cbayer!
Tue Dec 2, 2014, 05:15 PM
Dec 2014

We were there in 2000 (after a wedding in Poland,) and had a fine time, even tho very brief, and no real hiking. Was early June, and before large tourist population. We stayed and swam in Vernazza, and boated to Riomaggiore.

cbayer

(146,218 posts)
3. It sounds like heaven.
Tue Dec 2, 2014, 05:37 PM
Dec 2014

Interesting that she found a place to stay through AirBnb.

I have found that even in really expensive places, you can often find a very inexpensive place through that site.

I'm so glad you got to experience it and I'm putting it on my list.

elleng

(136,365 posts)
4. Glad she did too. EDITED,
Tue Dec 2, 2014, 05:50 PM
Dec 2014

We found a small room through informal bnb, concierge at our hotel in Genoa called someone and found us a room above the town square of Vernazza. And our favorite place to eat, I THINK it was this place, IN the Vernazza piazza

http://www.giannifranzi.it/


GREAT seafood!

Look what I found, pic from 14 year old photo album, Vernazza piazza, at great Trattoria, and below our room which was to the right and upstairs. Sorry for quality, no digital in 2000!


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