Kitchen drain installation

[Ino]

I'm trying to install a new drain in my kitchen sink after having removed a garbage disposal. So, I have the drain with its sink strainer, then a 1.5" flanged tailpiece washer which fits inside a 1.5" flanged tailpiece, then the slip nut joint... correct?

It leaks! Do I need to put that pipe tape around the threads of the drain that the slip nut joint screws onto? It seems so strange that the strainer and a hard washer just butt up against each other and a screw-on collar is supposed to seal that together. I don't see how it would NOT leak.

Also, when I look down through the drain, I see this washer smaller than the drain's strainer above it. It effectively reduces the diameter of the pipe at that point. Is this correct?? I just foresee little bits of gunk getting caught between the criss-cross of the sink strainer and this washer, never being able to flush down. Is this really how it's supposed to be? Is there a different kind of washer I can use here rather than one that looks like this...


The guy who was supposed to install this never showed up, so I'm D-I-Myself. Hey, I took out the disposal and old faucet, and installed a new faucet successfully. I thought the drain would be the easy part

Any insight would be appreciated!

[AnotherMcIntosh]

1. Would this help?

[X_Digger]

2. Here's the order for a typical kitchen drain.. (without garbage disposal)

Metal / ceramic / etc flange of tailpiece -> plumber's putty -> sink lip -> rubber washer -> plastic or fiber washer -> nut.

Plumber's putty sounds like the bit you're missing. You roll it out like kid's clay into a small snake, and put it on the underside of the tailpiece flange. When you tighten the nut (with washer(s)), the putty squeezes out and you remove the excess when done.

[Ino]

5. No, no... that's not the part I'm talking about

This part I get -- "Metal / ceramic / etc flange of tailpiece -> plumber's putty -> sink lip -> rubber washer -> plastic or fiber washer -> nut." -- that's where the drain hooks up to the sink itself.

It's the NEXT part I'm having trouble with... the part where the TAILPIECE hooks up to the drain. It is leaking. I don't think plumber's putty is called for there.... but maybe that white tape that wraps around screw threads?

Also... the tailpiece washer makes the tailpiece a smaller diameter at that point. The washer and the criss-cross part of the drain's bottom thus overlap... doesn't gunk get caught in between and around them? I can see that area getting icky real fast. Is that right??

It's this connection...


This is the type of washer/tailpipe/nut I have...


Thanks!

[X_Digger]

6. Ahhh, gotcha.. I misunderstood.

Yeah, the reducing adapter from 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" can be a source of clogs. If it were me, I'd use a 1-1/2" tailpiece / p-trap into the wall bushing in a perfect world (or a reducing adapter lower down the tailpiece.

As to the leaking, has the nut that holds the tailpiece on been cross-threaded? Any threads goobered up on the sink trap piece?

Usually you only have to go hand tight with those plastic tailpieces.

You might want to try some teflon paste, rather than tape- it seems to work better for me. And don't over-tighten.

eta: You likely don't need that little adapter between the sink basket and the tailpiece. It's usually used for bar sinks where you have a smaller drain.

[Ino]

7. It's not a reducing adapter.

It's the WASHER that came with the drain, that sits inside the 1.5" tailpiece (see photo I linked to). Seeing as how it sits inside the pipe, it effectively reduces the diameter of the pipe =at that point=, and is also a smaller diameter than the opening at the bottom of the drain. Is there any other kind of washer that can be used other than this type? I'm using all 1.5" pipe.

I don't know what you mean by "goobered up"? The nut screws on smoothly.

"Don't overtighten" is always a difficult concept, as what's "hand-tight" to me (female) is not nearly hand-tight to a man.

[X_Digger]

8. If it's visible looking down into the drain, it's not likely a washer..

Some bar and 'prep' sinks use a *slightly* smaller trap/basket than is standard, so most universal tailpiece kits come with a bushing that works for those sinks.

Since you've got metal (sink basket) -> plastic tailpiece -> metal (nut), I don't believe you need a washer in there. The plastic will deform to match the basket.

And yeah, hand tight is so vague, with variation in hand strength, as to be next to meaningless. Unfortunately, I don't think there's a torque wrench made for sinks, hehe.

[Ino]

9. Fixed!

I took the washer out, wrapped the screw threads with that white tape, and put it back together. No leaks!

Thanks to all who helped

[X_Digger]

10. Woot! Awesome! n/t

[Silver Gaia]

3. Yep, plumber's putty

We just put in a new sink and redid all the drains. It took a couple of tries with one drain to stop it from leaking, but we just hadn't used enough plumber's putty. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

[Hassin Bin Sober]

4. It's hard to explain without a video.

There are plenty of videos on YouTube.

The drain basket gets set in a bead of plumber's putty.

The slip nut connectors should have the plastic compression gaskets - taperd end points the direction you are tightening to. A little thread dope on the screw connections doesn't hurt - mike Holmes does it, I do it, but my brother scoffs at the idea.

[blueangel446]

11. Can someone help me with sink install

I'm redoing an old kitchen. Did move plumbing over some to relocate sink. Cabinets in ,counter top installed. Deeper sink then what was there before. Need to hook up dishwasher. Here is the problem from bottom of sink basket to pea trap piece is approx 2 inches. I need a tail pipe with flang to hook up dishwasher but none short enough. Will there be a problem if I cut top of Pea trap down inorder to fit the flang part in?
Once cut how do you attach when this end will not have any threads on it?

Sorry if this is posted to wrong place. I couldn't figure out how post a question.

[Ino]

12. Oh gosh, I'm the wrong person to ask, LOL

Click on the blue "Start a Discussion" button right up at the top on the main screen where all the threads are listed (in the DIY group). That will start a new thread for you

[CaliforniaPeggy]

13. It's a good question, but until you get to 10 posts, you can't start your own thread.

We do that to weed out the trolls!

Welcome to DU!

Start talking to people, and pretty soon you'll have your ten posts. Then you can post your own thread, and you'll get some attention for your question.